How To Beat Your Boss Audi G28
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How to replace audi key an audi etron key G28 Engine Speed Sensor
Charles the Humble Technician teaches you how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. This sensor is situated near the transmission's edge, above the flywheel gear. It transmits a signal the ECU via a grey wire (T55/49) and then to the tachometer within the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
Located on the edge of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to ECU pin T55/49 using an uncolored wire. The ECU then utilizes this information to regulate fuel, timig and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 tachometer inside the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used as a reference point to connect with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can activate spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft aren't in sync and possibly indicating chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper timing chain. The code won't appear without the additional information provided by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing is a bit challenging since there are two pins for the connector and they have different functions but the most effective method to test it is by measuring resistance between the sensor and the ECU. It should read around 1000 ohms when it is operating at its maximum. Examine for signs of coolant or oil in the connector bay if there are problems with this part.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating from the highway paytoll at full speed I noticed a massive reduction in power. It was like the engine had run out of gas. Or my injectors weren't firing. I took out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked in gasoline, and the fourth was dry. When I crank the engine with no sparks i put tissue on top of each injector hole and the 3 that were drenched in gazoline pop out, but the 4th stay shut. I checked the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30, and 48/55. I found zero ohm. I assume that the problem is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it is running fine with the G28 plugged in. However, the intermittent misfire problem still occurs at higher RPM. The coolant temperature sensor (G62) shows the wrong temperature value of -49c, even if I unplug it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar when the actual pressure is 0.
I'm not sure what to do. I believe that I've all other possibilities out. But i'm worried that I might have missed something. If anyone has any ideas please let me know! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 is activated by a signal sent from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is similar to the G4 sender, and both operate on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily find the spare in a salvage shop or parts store. It is easy to test them: simply put your DMM into resistance mode and measure the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector's end facing up). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B, AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that needs to know the position and speed of the crankshaft in order to make decisions about timing of the fuel injectors, etc. In order to do this it makes use of a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If either of these goes wrong, you will receive codes on the diagnostic scanner that can lead to engine shutdown.
A failing G28 sensor could result in an inaccurate speed counter for your gearbox, a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, and/or a misfire while in the gear. If you experience any of these issues, it is likely that your sensor is going bad and needs replacing. They're inexpensive and easy to locate, especially if they're an Bosch sensor like ours. Alternately, GM's version this part would be a good option.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine speed sensor could be the cause of numerous problems in your vehicle. It's a vital component of the audi q5 key's transmission because it communicates to the ECU about how fast or slow the car's crankshaft is spinning. This sensor can cause the transmission to malfunction and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the outskirts of transmission, above the flywheel ring. It sends signals via a gray wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU then processes the signal to control fuel, timig, and boost and then transmitting it to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can check for sensor failure by examining the continuity from the sensor to the tachometer. Additionally, you can verify continuity between pin T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79trace [79]), and between pin T6a/1 as well as pin T26a/12. There should be an average resistance of 1000 ohms between these two points. This is the same across the audi spare key replacement 80-100-200-RS2 model, ranging from the 1985 MC all the way up to the 1997 UrS AN and the 1995 RS2 DU So, you may find them in wrecking yards.
Charles the Humble Technician teaches you how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. This sensor is situated near the transmission's edge, above the flywheel gear. It transmits a signal the ECU via a grey wire (T55/49) and then to the tachometer within the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
Located on the edge of the transmission, above the flywheel ring gear G28 Engine Speed Sensor sends an electrical signal to ECU pin T55/49 using an uncolored wire. The ECU then utilizes this information to regulate fuel, timig and boost. It also sends an indication to the G5 tachometer inside the instrument cluster.
The sensor is used as a reference point to connect with the G40 Camshaft Position Sensor. The ecu must be aware when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can activate spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails, the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft aren't in sync and possibly indicating chain stretch or a jumped link on the upper timing chain. The code won't appear without the additional information provided by other sensors (G4 or G40).
Testing is a bit challenging since there are two pins for the connector and they have different functions but the most effective method to test it is by measuring resistance between the sensor and the ECU. It should read around 1000 ohms when it is operating at its maximum. Examine for signs of coolant or oil in the connector bay if there are problems with this part.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating from the highway paytoll at full speed I noticed a massive reduction in power. It was like the engine had run out of gas. Or my injectors weren't firing. I took out the spark plugs this morning, three were soaked in gasoline, and the fourth was dry. When I crank the engine with no sparks i put tissue on top of each injector hole and the 3 that were drenched in gazoline pop out, but the 4th stay shut. I checked the ground connection of ECU pins 14,30, and 48/55. I found zero ohm. I assume that the problem is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID but with no luck. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it is running fine with the G28 plugged in. However, the intermittent misfire problem still occurs at higher RPM. The coolant temperature sensor (G62) shows the wrong temperature value of -49c, even if I unplug it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bar when the actual pressure is 0.
I'm not sure what to do. I believe that I've all other possibilities out. But i'm worried that I might have missed something. If anyone has any ideas please let me know! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 is activated by a signal sent from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is similar to the G4 sender, and both operate on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily find the spare in a salvage shop or parts store. It is easy to test them: simply put your DMM into resistance mode and measure the distance between pins 1 and 2 (with the bump at the connector's end facing up). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
Our 20vt turbo (3B, AAN, ABY and ADU) engines have an ECU that needs to know the position and speed of the crankshaft in order to make decisions about timing of the fuel injectors, etc. In order to do this it makes use of a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If either of these goes wrong, you will receive codes on the diagnostic scanner that can lead to engine shutdown.
A failing G28 sensor could result in an inaccurate speed counter for your gearbox, a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, and/or a misfire while in the gear. If you experience any of these issues, it is likely that your sensor is going bad and needs replacing. They're inexpensive and easy to locate, especially if they're an Bosch sensor like ours. Alternately, GM's version this part would be a good option.
5. Tachometer
A failing engine speed sensor could be the cause of numerous problems in your vehicle. It's a vital component of the audi q5 key's transmission because it communicates to the ECU about how fast or slow the car's crankshaft is spinning. This sensor can cause the transmission to malfunction and other components in the car to be affected.
The G5 engine sensor is located at the outskirts of transmission, above the flywheel ring. It sends signals via a gray wire to the ECU pin T55/49. The ECU then processes the signal to control fuel, timig, and boost and then transmitting it to the G5 Tachometer located in the instrument cluster. You can check for sensor failure by examining the continuity from the sensor to the tachometer. Additionally, you can verify continuity between pin T55/49 of the ECU and pin T6a/1 of the instrument cluster (trace [79trace [79]), and between pin T6a/1 as well as pin T26a/12. There should be an average resistance of 1000 ohms between these two points. This is the same across the audi spare key replacement 80-100-200-RS2 model, ranging from the 1985 MC all the way up to the 1997 UrS AN and the 1995 RS2 DU So, you may find them in wrecking yards.
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