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American-style eight-ball is played around the world by professionals and in many amateur leagues. Some leagues and tournaments using the World Standardized Rules may allow smaller sizes, down to 7 by 3.5 ft (2.1 by 1.1 m). The World Pool-Billiard Association (WPA), the governing body of pool which has continental and national affiliates around the world, promulgates standardized rules as Pool Billiards - The Rules of Play. Parish to Planet: How Football Came to Rule the World. This rule applies to any shot where the cue ball's first contact with a ball is with one that is frozen to a cushion or to the cue ball itself. The rules, as officially codified in the Billiard Congress of America's rule book, were periodically revised in the years following. The game arose from two changes made, namely that the 8 ball must be pocketed last to win, and that each player may pocket only half of the other object balls. The playing area of a standard tournament table measures 11 feet 8 inches by 5 ft 10 in (3.569 m by 1.778 m) with a tolerance of 1⁄2 inch (1.26 cm) in both directions, though smaller ones, down to half size, are often found in snooker halls, pubs and home billiard rooms.

If any balls from a player's suit are on the table, the player must hit one of them first on every shot; otherwise a foul is called and the turn ends. Losing hazard (in-off in snooker terms) - striking one's cue ball so that it hits another ball and then enters a pocket: 3 points if the red ball was hit first; 2 points if the other cue ball was hit first; 2 points if the red and the other cue ball are hit simultaneously. After the red has been potted twice off the spot in a row (i.e. without a cannon or losing hazard), it is respotted on the middle spot. If the middle spot is occupied, it goes on the pyramid spot (the pink spot in snooker). When potted from the middle or pyramid spot, it returns to the spot at the top of the table. If the striker then makes 15 consecutive hazards, the non-striker's ball is spotted, after the fifteenth hazard, in the Middle of the Baulk-line or, if that spot is occupied, on the right-hand corner of the "D", as viewed from baulk. The red ball is placed on the spot at the top of the table (same as the black spot in snooker) and the first player begins by playing in-hand from the "D" behind the baulk line.

The cue ball is placed anywhere the breaker desires behind the head string. The opponent has the option of receiving cue ball in hand behind the head string or passing the cue ball in hand behind the head string back to the offending player. Any balls pocketed on the break shot or jumped off the table are spotted, and the player begins by taking ball in hand anywhere on the table. There are usually 2 or 3 points attached to this shot. If playing in-hand and all balls on the table are in baulk, and contact is not made with any ball, this is a miss; 2 points are awarded to the opponent, who must play from where the balls have come to rest. The game does retain some popularity amongst snooker players, who can use the same equipment for both games and play the game to practise ball control.

If a foul occurs, two points are awarded to the opposing player who has the choice of playing from where the balls lie or they can be respotted. If an opponent's cue ball is potted, it remains off the table until it is that opponent's turn to play, when it is returned to that player, who may play it in-hand from the "D". The other cue ball remains off the table until the opponent's first turn, when they play in hand from the "D". The cue ball may be ADJUSTED by the player's hand, cue, etc., so long as it remains in hand. Touching any object ball with the cue ball while it is in hand is a foul. The player who gets their ball closer to the baulk cushion can now choose which cue ball they want to use during the game and to break or let the opponent break. A "Women's Billiard Association" was formed in Britain in 1931. One of the founders was Teresa Billington-Greig who had been a leading suffragette and was then married to a billiard ball manufacturer. The first champion was Jonathan Kentfield, who held the title from 1820 to 1849, losing it to John Roberts Sr. after Kentfield refused his challenge.

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